Antiaging Skincare Ingredients: What they target and why you need them in your regimen
Last post, we touched on the importance of using medical-grade skincare to achieve healthy, vibrant, glowing skin. When it comes to antiaging skincare, prevention is key. It is much easier to prevent deep wrinkles and skin damage as opposed to correcting it. In this post, I will cover the most common anti-aging ingredients and their benefits.
As a basic overview, if you want to target the following concerns, you should look for the following ingredients:
· Wrinkles: Retinol, Bakuchiol, Vitamin C, Sunscreen
· Sagging Skin: Peptides, Growth Factors, Ceramides, Sunscreen
· Brown Discoloration: Hydroquinone, Retinol, Bakuchiol, Vitamin C, Niacinamide, Tranexamic Acid, Sunscreen
· Red Discoloration: Niacinamide, Ceramides, Vitamin C, Azelaic Acid, Sunscreen
· Uneven/Dull Skin tone: Chemical Exfoliators, Retinol, Bakuchiol, Niacinamide, Vitamin C, Sunscreen
Sunscreen:
Have you heard the saying “SPF, your BFF”? Well, my friends, I’m telling you that you need a SPF BFF. It may not sound very glamorous, but it is my #1 antiaging product and one of the most powerful tools against wrinkles. Research suggests that 80% of facial aging is a result of UV exposure which leads to fine lines, wrinkles, sagging skin, and uneven or discolored skin tone. If you are not consistent with your sunscreen application, then all the other expensive serums and creams are being counteracted by UV and environmental stressors. While wearing SPF won’t lighten your preexisting brown spots, it does help prevent new or worsening spots from repeated sun exposure.
2. Retinol/Bakuchiol:
The “holy grail” of antiaging products, outside of SPF. Retinol and retinoids are derivatives of Vitamin A. They are intended to penetrate the deeper layers of the skin to increase cell turnover and assist with collagen remodeling. Increased cell turnover allows dead skin cells and older layers of the stratum corneum (outermost layer of the skin) to be removed by speeding up the exfoliation process. This treatment targets acne blemishes, fine lines, and wrinkles, and improves discoloration and uneven skin tones. Because retinols are inactivated by sunlight, make sure to only use your products at bedtime.
Bakuchiol, a natural alternative to retinol, can be added to retinol serums to decrease irritation. In addition, this ingredient also stimulates cell turnover and existing collagen production.
3. Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)/ Ferulic Acid:
Two powerhouses of the antioxidant family. These two ingredients help protect the skin from free radical damage leading to an improved appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, inflammation/redness, and superficial hyperpigmentation. Protect your natural collagen and slow the aging process by neutralizing collagen-gobbling free radicals. Ferulic Acid amplifies the benefits of other antiaging products like Vitamin C, A, and E.
4. Niacinamide:
A well-studied molecule with many benefits, Niacinamide, a form of Vitamin B3 helps to visibly improve the signs of photoaging, dark spots, uneven skin tone, and redness. You will appreciate improved texture and elasticity with visibly tightened skin and a minimized look of fine lines, wrinkles, and pores.
5. Ceramides:
Ceramides are lipids that are naturally found in the skin. They come into play when we're talking about repairing our skin barrier. The importance of a healthy skin barrier is to keep hydration in and keep irritants out. However, with an impaired skin barrier, your skin loses hydration which leads to more fine lines and wrinkles in addition to letting pollutants in.
6. Growth Factors/Peptides:
Growth Factors and Peptides are proteins, derived from humans, animals, or plants, that provide the building blocks for and/or stimulate the production of a specific cell. Epidermal growth factors and peptides send stimulatory signals to increase the production of collagen and elastin. Since we lose 1% of our natural collagen per year after the age of 30, these ingredients have become increasingly important in the prevention of wrinkles and sagging skin.
7. Hyaluronic Acid:
The ultimate thirst quencher and always has been a fan favorite. Hyaluronic acid is a naturally existing molecule in the skin and loves water. When applied, it penetrates the deeper layers of the skin and locks in moisture – think of a sponge. Skin immediately appears plumper and more hydrated with continued benefits of reduction of fine lines/wrinkles with continued use. Dermal fillers, also made from hyaluronic acid, can provide more long-term support in severe cases.
8. Chemical Exfoliants:
We are all familiar with mechanical exfoliants – beads or gritty substances that are massaged onto the skin to remove dead skin cells. Chemical exfoliants, usually AHA/BHA (alpha-hydroxy acid or beta-hydroxy acid) are ingredients that chemically remove dirt and dead skin cells. Usually found in facial cleansers, serums, and in-office chemical peels – these ingredients boost elasticity and improve texture, tone, and pore size.
Glycolic Acid: Type of AHA. Can penetrate the deepest in the skin of all AHAs. Helps with fine lines, wrinkles, and hyperpigmentation.
Lactic Acid: Type of AHA. Derived from milk and is generally more gentle than glycolic acid. Easier on gentle or dry skin.
Salicylic Acid: Type of BHA. Good for acne-prone, oily skin types.
I hope that this information clarifies which ingredients may be beneficial to add to your regimen or where you may have a gap in your current regimen. Visit your local aesthetic healthcare professional for access to exclusive ingredients and products.
Best,
Sheri Rocha, MPH, MSPAS, PA-C
Founder, CEO, Master Aesthetic Injector